The following is a list of problems along with likely causes and associated solutions.
Keylock Will Not Stay In
- Loose material in the black encasement:
- Open lock drawer and look inside the backside of the encasement for any loose material.
- Ensure the keylock moves freely in the encasement.
- Drawer(s) do not close properly:
- Make sure all drawers are closed and that there is not anything in the drawerhead track or behind the drawer body.
- Make sure the drawer(s) are in the right opening. Each drawer is numbered on the right hand side with the lock drawer being #1.
- Make sure drawers are properly aligned inside the opeing. Loosen the two #8 screws located in the bottom center of the drawer body, and adjust the drawer side to side, then re-tighten the screws.
- Side catch(es) not adjusted properly:
- Close all of the drawers and holding keylock in the locked poisition, try to open all of the drawers. There should be some movement in each side catch. If there is not any play in any of the side catches, perform the side catch adjustment procedure.
- Keylock stud loose (Medico keylocks):
Check the lock stud on the back of the keylock. If the stud is loose, tighten with a flat screwdriver.
- Roll pin hanging on eccentric (HG Series keylocks):
Tap roll pin in so that it clears the eccentric but still catches on the drawer head; line so that the key lock will not pull through the head.
Key Goes In, But 1 or More Drawers Will Not Open
- Loose or missing lock rod pins:
- Check the lock pins for each drawer located on the lock rod on the right hand side of the cabinet and tighten pins with a flat screwdriver.
- Make sure the lock pin in the eccentric is in place and securely fastened to the lock rod.
- Side catch flipper is rubbing on the side of the cabinet:
- Loosen the two #8 screws located in the bottom of the drawer body and move the entire drawer to the left. If the drawer becomes too tight to move in and out freely, move the drawer back slightly to the right.
- Tap on the part of the flipper that is rubbing with a hammer so that it clears the cabinet.
- Overfilling drawers:
Over filling of drawers can cause the drawers to bulge and the sidecatch to rub against the side of the cabinet and hang in the up or bypass position.
Closing Drawers with the Keylock Pushed In, Side Catch Flipper Raises Above the Bypass Dimple
- Side catch is set too low:
Follow the side catch adjustment procedure to adjust the side catch up.
Cabinet Will Not Unlock
- Side catches are set too low:
- Firmly grasp the handle of the top drawer and depress thumblatch. Jerk drawer until it opens.
- Follow the side catch adjustment procedure to adjust the side catch up.
- Lock rod binding; keylock moves in and out freely but cabinet will not unlock: File will need to be opened following drill point instructions. Note: All 3 and 4 drawer models will have a ball bearing roller attached to the lock rod on each drawer. It may be necessary to bend the drawer body side rails with the bearings before the cabinet will open. Follow lock rod installation instructions to repair the top of the cabinet.
- Keylock will not move in the black encasement:
- Drill. Remove lock stuck from the back of the keylock. Remove the screws from around the head liner and remove head from the drawer body. Turn key to the unlocked position and using a screwdriver hold the key plunger in and remove the key.
- Look for loose material in the encasement or place where keylock was binding.
- Lubricate the encasement and replace the keylock. Ensure that the keylock works properly before the head is attached to the drawer body.
- Keylock will not spring out but the cabinet will open if the keylock is pulled out:
- Lubricate keylock with WD-40.
- Check the encasement for loose material.
- Check lockrod and eccentric assembly for proper movement.
Most departments are available 8 am to 5 pm Monday to Friday except holidays.